As fashion reviewers for over 1000 London shops, we’ve been heavily tracking Christopher Raeburn, David Koma and Belstaff as labels that we think have potential for massive greatness. Sure, London Fashion Week is a wonderful showcase for the big established labels like Burberry, Vivienne Westwood and Paul Smith to name but a few – but we want to highlight perhaps less familiar names to the savvy fashion shopper opening up more avenues of choice!
We’ve come across Christopher Raeburn’s ethical, recycled remade ex-military designs on our visits to Dover Street Market, Machine A and Harvey Nichols and have become increasingly impressed. The show had all his core design signatures: capes, puffer jackets and duffle coats (See above picture). Fun motifs of bubbles and sharks adorned shirtdresses and jumpsuits. Raeburn’s casual style extends using Japanese wool denims successfully on knee length skirts and pinafore dresses.
David Koma is stocked in Browns Focus, South Molton Street just off Oxford Street with a growing reputation in France, Italy, Russia and USA. His hot glitz catwalk featured long legged models in minis decked out with circular cutouts a theme carried through to macramé lace and fishnet in black and nude. Check the black patent detailing to complete the look. Indigo and orange eveningwear had a mix of perspex and crystal which seemed to have built in flashbulbs!
Belstaff drew inspiration from female aviators Amy Johnson and Amelia Earhart using leather, shearling, wool, and rabbit fur. The androgenous pieces mixed luxury with practicality. The presentation held at a crumbling mansion setting in Clerkenwell was a far cry from their normal retail locations at 135 New Bond Street, Selfridges, Harrods and Harvey Nichols. Unstructured white shirts were paired with brown and tan aviator jackets. Great collection!
Daniela and Annette Felder took inspiration from 1960’s Berlin. Sheer silk organza and lace worked well on dresses and separates. We liked the black shirt dress with sheer shoulders and fringed hemline. The show concluded with metallic rose gold head turning micro-minis. A very good collection and interestingly took place at Fashion Scout, Covent Garden the very first place that Felder & Felder showed in London.
Eudon Choi was our first show of London Fashion Week at the BFC Space at Somerset House. The runway was a sleek elegant affair with an abundance of trousers. Wide leg versions featured a flash of colour down one side, whilst flares either skimmed the floor or finished just above the ankle. Blocked colours, and bold large circles were key to this collection. Sumptuous satin evening wear in two colour combos in yellow-gold with flashes of blue were amongst our favourites.
We caught up with HEMYCA design duo Helen Clinch and Myra Nigris for their enchanting presentation in the Atrium of the ME Hotel, Aldwych . Beautifully displayed were models wearing striking red and black tartans -so very adaptable for autumnal wear. Amongst our favourite pieces was an elegant pale blue knee length dress with black lace. Season on season HEMYCA have shown a consistency to make great wearable collections. Definitely a label to watch!
Also at the ME Hotel but partying at the Marconi Lounge was Ada Zanditon showing her delightful warrior goddess couture collection. A presentation full of glitz, laser cut fabrics embellished with crystals sculpturally entwined into bodices in gold and silver. Matched up with silver, gold or black skirts and dresses- perfect for parties!
Fashion Fabulous’s Tracy Rose reporting from the front row
Scottish designer Jonathan Saunders wowed again with printed graphics at TOPSHOP Show Space –this time at Tate Britain, Pimlico. Joy and optimism inspired the Op Art prints in clashing colours that included purple, red, black, white and green. Models sashayed in Christian Louboutin over the knee lace-up boots. Like many designers showing in London, Saunders opted for high necks. Check his collection at Matches, Harvey Nichols, Joseph and Liberty. Gyo Yuni Kimchoe (see below) went for oversized heavy tweed coats worn with wide legged trousers of the same fabric.
Designers Gyo Kim and Yuni Choe showed their eco-friendly ethos by using faux fur and leather in the collection. As with many shows that at LFW, fringes finished off hemlines.
Fashion Fabulous’s Tracy Rose and Russell Rose soaking up the atmosphere at London Fashion Week
See our new video London Fashion Week AW15 Part 1
Don’t miss our Part 2 of Fashion Fabulous at London Fashion Week AW 2015 that will be posted in the next few days!
For the most fashionable places to shop in London, see our latest book Fashion Fabulous London 3rd Edition available Available from Waterstones, Harrods, Selfridges, Foyles, Daunt, Stanfords Travel, Rizzoli Bookshop at Somerset House, 3939 Shop, Wall & Jones, Nico Didonna, Bohemia Road, Present-London and airport bookshops. Internationally, you can get it in New York at Barnes & Noble, and bookshops in Italy, Australia, China, Japan and throughout the world and on Amazon and many independent internet bookshop websites priced £12.99. Order your copy now!!!
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